TwisterBlocks installed (with instructions)

<div>And boy, do they rock! It's not often a design does exactly what you want it to do from the first try, but this time it worked. These blocks are the best upgrade I've ever given my poor old Ultimaker. Not only are they much easier to install than any bearing blocks I've previously had, they have amazing grip on the 6mm rods. My print head never felt this stable. Also, they actually provide a lot of tension by themselves, quite more than I expected.<br /> <br /> With the TwisterBlocks my printer seems to be much quieter, and the sound of it moving is really smooth. I suppose it is due to the fact the whole XY carriage is more rigid now than before. Although I will provide STLs I strongly suggest you use the STEP files, print one out to see if the bushing and M3 nuts fit properly and adjust if necessary, because the final printed radius can really differ between various printer/slicer combos.  <i>[The M3 nuts should fit snugly in the traps so that they don't fall out, and the bushing should slide in the block with just a little bit of friction, and without deforming it significantly.]</i><br /> <i><br /></i><i><b>UPDATE 26.12.2013: The parts that engage the endstops have been widened to 10 mm to compensate for the blocks being 2mm wider towards the center of the printer, so that the default endswitch positions still work. All the files have been updated accordingly.</b></i><br /> <i><b><br /></b></i> <h3> How to install TwisterBlocks:</h3> <div> <i>[Before you print this please note that these blocks are 2 mm longer than stock towards the center of the printer, so effectively they will shorten your print envelope by 4 mm in both X and Y directions]</i></div> <div> <br /></div> <div> 1. Download the files from <a href="http://www.youmagine.com/designs/twisterblocks">YouMagine</a> or <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:211561">Thingiverse</a>.</div> <div> <br /></div> <div> 2. Additionally you will need:</div> <div> <ul> <li>8x M3x20 bolt</li> <li>8x M3x30 bolt</li> <li>16x M3 nut</li> </ul> </div> <div> <br /></div> <div> 2. Slice with 25% infill, double walls, 0.6 up/downskins or similar. No support. I used Cura for slicing.</div> <div> <i>[You can print everything individually, or use the plated file, all the parts are already properly oriented for printing, so do not rotate them!]</i></div> <div> <br /></div> <div> 3. You need to end up with the following printed parts:</div> <div> <br /></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfHXgY4bHj4zCD1eegCGczLzVfekB6P3n6EIvD4dp9zyjbaGgM9T16n4H8-YsusIEu9EwI58Ol5Sa6U8gWatNwL0RUSc8pcWNDA2OITsOEaWZ3bQN2pl-5kKDm_7bEO1HsDxgPR8X2wS8/s1600/parts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfHXgY4bHj4zCD1eegCGczLzVfekB6P3n6EIvD4dp9zyjbaGgM9T16n4H8-YsusIEu9EwI58Ol5Sa6U8gWatNwL0RUSc8pcWNDA2OITsOEaWZ3bQN2pl-5kKDm_7bEO1HsDxgPR8X2wS8/s320/parts.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <div> <ul> <li>4x Belt clamp</li> <li>4x Rod clamp</li> <li>4x TwisterBlock <i>[Left, Right, Front, Back - note that each one is different]</i></li> </ul> <div> <br /></div> </div> <div> 4. The Left and Front blocks have pre-modelled break-away support, use thin pliers to remove those parts after printing. Clean any blobs or strings left from printing. </div> <div> <br /></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCU-ZWNroeOo14fWq3Nr6lS38GDxRmFuidmuyI_-KwGdlIFP1yfeBheGI9p_K0rzxQ7vvgT1btjEeebhL9SN-9P9HhRwM-5Da71h87_ei50l43LGkj16vqcp0bYZGJEq9T4m-W8F4-YQY/s1600/support.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCU-ZWNroeOo14fWq3Nr6lS38GDxRmFuidmuyI_-KwGdlIFP1yfeBheGI9p_K0rzxQ7vvgT1btjEeebhL9SN-9P9HhRwM-5Da71h87_ei50l43LGkj16vqcp0bYZGJEq9T4m-W8F4-YQY/s320/support.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <div> <br /></div> <div> <br /></div> <div> 5. Check if all the bores for M3 bolts allow them to slide in and out without much trouble, if necessary use a drill with a 3mm bit to carefully widen them. You want them to slide freely, that will save much time when (dis)assembling.</div> <div> <br /></div> <div> 6. Remove your old blocks and take out the bushings. <i>[This is a good opportunity to clean all your linear rods while you're at it.]</i></div> <div> <br /></div> <div> 7. Slide a bushing into each TwisterBlock, and place two M3 nuts in the provided nut traps on each one. </div> <div> <br /></div> <div> 8. It's easier to clamp the belts in the appropriate blocks before actually installing them on the rods. At least that's how I do it. Be sure to remove any tensioners before you do that! First bolt in the part of the clamp with the rounded end, then press the other one in and bolt that one too. <i>[Note the orientation of the rounded end!]</i></div> <div> <br /></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6uVpj_IUIOwaXfvaRZPeAiO6FbY9eF-DjYYTZHh2Y_vWm3-zz10BJrGbyHvH6tQPaKctAM9BnKDyvQnEWd4WEVpQOTDr_iXi_rLgt37TVjCB-CzqZXEYrOqQXGdgiRoqBEJ6HwcUNbB8/s1600/belt-clamp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6uVpj_IUIOwaXfvaRZPeAiO6FbY9eF-DjYYTZHh2Y_vWm3-zz10BJrGbyHvH6tQPaKctAM9BnKDyvQnEWd4WEVpQOTDr_iXi_rLgt37TVjCB-CzqZXEYrOqQXGdgiRoqBEJ6HwcUNbB8/s320/belt-clamp.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <div> <br /></div> <div> This will also keep the bushings in place. Be careful not to over tighten anything. The belts are kept in place even without it being very tight, you only need enough tension to keep the bushings in place, which is not a lot. </div> <div> <br /></div> <div> 9. Assemble everything just like you would with the normal UM blocks. Yes, it's a pain but it's the last time you will ever be doing that. :)</div> <div> <br /></div> <div> 10. Now take your printhead with the 6mm rods going through it, and rotate it clockwise to slide all the rods into their positions. Take the rod clamps and bolt each one with two M3x30 bolts and M3 nuts. </div> <div> <br /></div> <div> And you're done, enjoy your TwisterBlocks, and happy experimenting without having to dissasemble half of your UM every time. :)</div> <div> <br /></div> <div> <i>[If you decide to use them, let me know how they work! I'm always eager to hear other peoples experience with my designs. Also, if you find something in the instructions unclear, don't hesitate to ask.]</i></div> <div> <br /></div> </div>

More bearing blocks...

<div>I tested out the <a href="http://chopmeister.blogspot.com/2013/12/haddon-out-new-bearing-blocks-and-belt.html">Simple Blocks</a> mentioned in my last post, and I immediately saw room for improvement to the design. I've spent quite a while pondering new ideas and came up with something very nice - the TwisterBlock.<br /> <div> <br /></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBd3bTmVSH17Rn_k9zERZO4MfTwCbJP4Lka3UYG3JPGf5XXjNPPG3idpU_Ls97bL_nDP1oNNmKPWigim3E5uv9cIuj5Ngw6ihnx3HQ5QN6dAqYjBpeQfP_9Iqq2ioDx_J2LD1ha-hLvQ/s1600/tb1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEBd3bTmVSH17Rn_k9zERZO4MfTwCbJP4Lka3UYG3JPGf5XXjNPPG3idpU_Ls97bL_nDP1oNNmKPWigim3E5uv9cIuj5Ngw6ihnx3HQ5QN6dAqYjBpeQfP_9Iqq2ioDx_J2LD1ha-hLvQ/s320/tb1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <div> <span style="font-size: x-small;">[No photos yet, because I always seem to be writing posts while waiting for my prints to finish - it seems like the best time since I'm usually really tired of drawing, and don't have anything better to do while I wait...]</span></div> <div> <div> <br /></div> <div> Since my biggest 3d printing related projects are the NanoBlock (non-bowden) and H4 (bowden) extruders, I constantly seem to need to change the printhead. The UM owners among you know exactly how much of a pain this is, and the others can consider themselves lucky since they never had to do that. Well, my troubles are no more (assuming this works as intended). <br /> <br /> I was thinking about how I could make it really easy to remove the XY cross bars and print head without disassembling everything, and I had an eureka moment: I could just "twist" it a bit and pull it out. Here's how you do that in three easy steps:</div> </div> <div> <br /></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ_n0RwbZp62vd6IXl_miP3-S47wdOS0lp1UnsigaYf2chbVxZaWDuv1vu4OlN1-5nKnckTLS_1F12YWjq27JeUjd0RdViw15yBJz4W_BOvlP92bS74wWLC-hnF4ehZWlit_2ggrDsIFc/s1600/tb2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ_n0RwbZp62vd6IXl_miP3-S47wdOS0lp1UnsigaYf2chbVxZaWDuv1vu4OlN1-5nKnckTLS_1F12YWjq27JeUjd0RdViw15yBJz4W_BOvlP92bS74wWLC-hnF4ehZWlit_2ggrDsIFc/s320/tb2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkdhSqHcV_L9HaeiL1ums1k-opMLPjKckq9u3rL45dh9VSqsuGXtPZfXdRuVJsjKLZjAZI5zxDnKACr28uk68iEK88fSmYbtiP6pFeDAZj9pYLtYd_KQXJS93PFjQPqUT4b59y3gfW8H4/s1600/tb3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkdhSqHcV_L9HaeiL1ums1k-opMLPjKckq9u3rL45dh9VSqsuGXtPZfXdRuVJsjKLZjAZI5zxDnKACr28uk68iEK88fSmYbtiP6pFeDAZj9pYLtYd_KQXJS93PFjQPqUT4b59y3gfW8H4/s320/tb3.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhATQOh1ejp5cCxkmVBXyfquwqXCAxjOgwTQwAqOCuuLzFJVFKObhW3OMNp4Xs_84-NwuR2sVD2TibJdXpK03bBDI-Br8B8guXfxUEz6rO3YhWuCHaEMWgFz0kXSFr6_r6_GqNO8J4HsMo/s1600/tb4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhATQOh1ejp5cCxkmVBXyfquwqXCAxjOgwTQwAqOCuuLzFJVFKObhW3OMNp4Xs_84-NwuR2sVD2TibJdXpK03bBDI-Br8B8guXfxUEz6rO3YhWuCHaEMWgFz0kXSFr6_r6_GqNO8J4HsMo/s320/tb4.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <br /></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <span style="text-align: center;">Once these block are in place, you can mess with your printhead as much as you like, the only thing you will have to remove is 8 bolts. I really hope this works, it will save me hours and hours of time in the long run if it does. Plus they don't look bad at all, and they are about 1.5 mm shorter at the end which is closer to the free section of the belt where tensioners usually go, just for good measure. The belt clamp mechanism is easy on the belts and it will not deform them, and will also provide just a little bit of extra tension.</span></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <span style="text-align: center;"><br /></span></div> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> <span style="text-align: center;">Stay tuned for updates in a day or two...</span></div> </div>

Haddon out - new bearing blocks and belt tensioners in

<div>So, I finally got the chance to test my Ultimaker H-bot addon, or Haddon as I called it. Unfortunately, it can be described best with two words: it sucks.<br /> <br /> The main problem is the inherent gantry twisting found in all H-bot configurations. While there are ways to fix that, currently I don't see any way of doing it that meets my design criteria (easy to print, small number of parts, reuse most of the parts from stock UM etc.). I think this would work much better with a coreXY setup, but as I already mentioned, I currently have no laser cutter to make a new coreXY based Haddon frame. I will continue research in that direction in a month or two when my new cutter arrives.<br /> <br /> All that means I had to revert my UM to its standard cross-bar gantry. Which got me thinking about bearing blocks. I have a rev.2 UM and the bearing blocks on those are terrible to install (the newer ones aren't much better though). I tried Mooncactus' <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45236">banana bushing blocks</a>, and while they have a nice integrated tensioner, in reality they aren't any less of a hassle to install. Plus I don't like the fact they are cut halfway through and you have to be really careful when tightening the bolts in order to have the top and bottom parts aligned correctly.<br /> <br /> I like Nick Foley's <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:154859">Reptar XY</a> blocks, but alas they use plastite screws which I don't have available (and I'm too lazy to buy/order some). All that considered, I was left with no other option but to design my own, since I really don't want to go through the nightmare of assembling the original ones ever again. :) So after a few hours of tinkering and test prints I came up with the Simple Block.<br /> <br /> I reused some of the ideas I had when I designed the sliding blocks for the Haddon, and ended up with a simple two piece design, where the block itself is one piece, and the belts are compressed by the second small part held by two bolts - those same two bolts also keep the sliding bushing in place when tightened. Quite handy, eh? The 6 mm rods are held in firmly in place with a single bolt. Wobbly 6mm rods were a big problem for me with the stock blocks, and also with the banana blocks, so I was determined not to have that problem again. It's nice to only have to use 3 bolts, all of which are always easily accessible. Like the stock UM bearing blocks, these aren't exactly <i>easy</i> to install, but they work for me. I've installed them on my UM and I'm waiting for the next <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:164813">NanoBlock</a> extruder prototype to finish printing to test everything out.<br /> <br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv05sEkNrcdEN7GUnOPufQkf5XVl4_wnH14umv7QltCO7Mqw1ds1S2HQAI83wLjNc4aF-75HeWszD7iNUqrKrW8dXejbEdy1nj2XquM8R0jBoQSOhA70tIWAgRX8ulEIlFtARs8s42k8k/s1600/Simpleblock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv05sEkNrcdEN7GUnOPufQkf5XVl4_wnH14umv7QltCO7Mqw1ds1S2HQAI83wLjNc4aF-75HeWszD7iNUqrKrW8dXejbEdy1nj2XquM8R0jBoQSOhA70tIWAgRX8ulEIlFtARs8s42k8k/s320/Simpleblock.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <br /> I'm thinking of splitting the Simple block design into three parts, so that it's possible to easily remove the 6mm rods and print head without disassembling anything else. I need to ponder that a bit, so I'll publish the design and files tomorrow, after I test it out.<br /> <br /> Now, that the blocks are in place, I was quickly reminded of the very sorry state my MXL belts are in after almost three years of constant torture. Since the Simple Blocks have no installed tensioners (I think that complicates things unnecessarily), I had to install some. I always liked the wave shaped <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:19892/#instructions">Ultimaker Belt Tensioners</a> by Gijs, but they weren't enough to tighten my very slack belts, so again I had to design something new. So I thought, what if I could put on two of those? Nope, too wide...<br /> <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:206066">But can they be made smaller? Yes!</a><br /> <br /> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Dlj-YBmH-WkDgleYql7ef6-vactOvWEYs-ank49UMhb3VoW_qNbuTvtDpi7Dl3AX5n6CRboUD3aUZea9dy7Sb46FQJv5W_UUyj_N723k04QmA8lEUyyufBENQfM0J7rAP-elAG59ntQ/s1600/MicroWave.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Dlj-YBmH-WkDgleYql7ef6-vactOvWEYs-ank49UMhb3VoW_qNbuTvtDpi7Dl3AX5n6CRboUD3aUZea9dy7Sb46FQJv5W_UUyj_N723k04QmA8lEUyyufBENQfM0J7rAP-elAG59ntQ/s320/MicroWave.jpg" width="320" /></a></div> <br /> I quickly printed out 8 pieces (I needed two per belt) and the results are amazing. They're very cute, and due to their size (20x8x10mm), you can use 2 or maybe even three per belt, depending on the state of your belts. Due to their blocky shape, they also seem more rigid than the original by Gijs.<br /> <br /> All in all I'm quite close to having my poor old UM printing again. Hopefully. :)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /></div>